Extreme Africa - July 2004

by Bridget Wijnberg

With eggs and lettuces creaking in the back, we turned off the tarmac and left civilisation behind. Ahead of us, four nights in The Great Beyond of North Luangwa National Park.

Almost immediately the road became a narrow track, at times just wider than a footpath. We wound through the tall, elephant grass and cotton fields dotted with plump, snow-white cotton balls. The road disappeared beneath us as we descended between golden phragmites reeds into a riverbed. A classic image of traditional life emerged before us: women gathered around water holes dug in the riverbed, plates piled high, clean laundry laid out on the white sand to dry.

With each mile we headed deeper into Africa. Past the lime green mosque under the big mango trees; left at the roofless court house; past women rhythmically pounding their maize into flour using the traditional wooden mortar and pestle. Fields and villages became scarcer. Everything was wilder, weirder and more surreal. We passed bizarre grass haystacks scattered about the fields. On closer inspection, they turned out to be double storey-huts. I bent low and peered into the darkness through one of the tiny reed doors. Above me was a small platform of sticks with grass neatly laid on top. I was told that they were temporary huts for crop guarding. The platform enabling a quick escape from predators. Even the dogs had their own miniature cone of grass to scramble into.

On and on. Not a soul. Just trees and grass and the brown dusty road. Bicycle tracks eventually announced a village approaching. We drove between the huts, past fidgety kids in their outdoor classroom craning their necks to see us. And finally, the Luangwa. There she was in all her familiar glory. Hippos and crocodiles and wide open sandbanks.

Crossing the Luangwa River is always good for a bit of adrenalin. Feeling like intrepid explorers we slipped into low range 4 x 4 and headed into the water. The water rose up ever higher, as the vehicle bumped and jolted over unseen hippo trails. With a sigh of relief we finally pulled up onto the dry sand. To think that Livingstone, slave traders and explorers alike had done that on foot! We were now officially in North Luangwa country and heading for Buffalo camp, where each day was to be like the next, lion, lion everywhere and 100% addictive.

A handsome pair of mating lion featured prominently in our daily safaris as they had set up residence within sight of camp. Not many people can lay claim to having seen mating lion from their chalet. On the one afternoon safari, as we walked across the clear Mwaleshi River, our bare white feet slipping gently into the cool water, the male plucked up the courage to mock charge us, tail flicking wildly, dust thrown up to make himself look impressive and giving us the most terrifying growl that he could muster. Although he was only brave enough to do this once we had the river between him and us.

Buffalo camp is definitely aptly named. A loud rushing sound from behind shook me out of my mid-picture dreamworld. I'd been painting the camp from the opposite side of the river when someone came rushing to the bank and shouted across, "Buffalo!" I immediately thought he could see thousands of "them" bearing down on me from his vantage point and was telling me to get back to camp, quick! There I was, not sure whether to leave all my chattels and high tail it across the water, or be the cool, calm bush woman. In fact we found the buffalo a kilometre away, in "the killing fields", a large, open area that funnels the game down to their favourite drinking/crossing point and the perfect place for lion hunting. My vivid imagination had excelled itself again. The image of pulverised watercolours, hat and self were just in my wildest dreams.

© Bridget Wijnberg 2004

Kafunta Safaris Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Camp South
Luangwa National Park
Box 83, Mfuwe, Zambia
kafunta@luangwa.com
Phone 00260 6 246046 or
Satellite Phone 00871 762068427
(office hours 0700- 1600)
For more info and Safari packages visit: www.luangwa.com